Virtual Lock Lab

How this actually works: no two pins are cut with perfectly identical clearance, so under tension, one pin always binds against the plug first - the rest stay loose. Set the tension slider to a light pressure, then drag a pin up to test it (or click a pin to select it, then use ↑ / ↓ to nudge it and ← / → to switch which pin you're testing). Watch the Force and Resistance gauges on the right - Force is how hard you're pushing; Resistance is how hard the pin is pushing back. Only the pin that's currently binding will build real resistance and travel all the way to the shear line; the others hit a hard stop early and stay loose no matter how hard you pull - and any pin you let go of that isn't caught will simply fall back down. Once a pin sets, the plug turns a hair, a different pin becomes the one that's binding, and the correct tension shifts a little too - watch the color on the tension slider itself. Too little tension (into yellow, then red) and anything already set falls back out; too much (yellow, then red on the tight end) and pins can bind wrong - a false set - or, if you really overdo it, everything drops and you start that pin sequence over (same lock, just your progress resets).

How real combination locks work: there are three wheels stacked inside, each with a notch (gate). Turning the dial catches wheels one at a time. Turn right at least 3 full turns, stop on your first number. Turn left, passing your first number once, stop on your second number. Turn right directly to your third number. When all three gates line up, the fence drops in and the lock opens. Grab the dial near its outer edge, not the middle - close to the center, tiny mouse movements swing the angle wildly and it'll feel impossible to control. You can also use ← / → to turn it a few degrees at a time if dragging is giving you trouble.